Support Settings for ASA-CF
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If you commented "settings" on one of our reels, this is the page. These are the exact Bambu Studio settings we run for supported prints in Y Customs ASA-CF, straight off the H2S that printed the part you saw. Nothing is held back and nothing is rounded off.
Straight up: if you are reading this, you NEED our filament to get the SAME results we get. These settings were tuned on our ASA-CF and nothing else. Other brands run a different base resin, a different carbon fibre loading and dry differently, so the same numbers on another spool give you a different print, and in our experience a worse one. If you want your parts to come out looking this professional, buy our filament, load these settings and don't look back.
And what is on this page is only the tip of the iceberg. Buy our filament and we will send through ALL the settings we run in Bambu Studio on our Bambu Lab printers, not just supports. Every filament, process and printer setting behind the parts you see in our reels.
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Hit the button, grab a spool and the full settings pack comes with it. Buy 4, 8 or 12 and the price per spool drops.
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The setup
| Item | What we use |
|---|---|
| Printer | Bambu Lab H2S |
| Nozzle | 0.6 mm hardened steel, standard flow |
| Build plate | Textured PEI plate |
| Filament | Y Customs ASA-CF, dried before use |
| Filament profile | Generic ASA, saved as a custom preset with the changes below |
| Process profile | 0.24mm Balanced Quality @BBL H2S 0.6 nozzle, with the support changes below |
Filament profile
Short version: 260°C nozzle, 100°C bed, 60°C chamber, 0.95 flow ratio, 12 mm³/s volumetric cap.
In Bambu Studio pick Generic ASA, hit edit, change the values below and save it as a new preset. Ours is called Y Customs ASA-CF H2S 0.6. Anything not listed is left at the Generic ASA default.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 260°C initial layer, 260°C other layers |
| Bed temperature (Textured PEI, Smooth PEI, Engineering plate) | 100°C initial layer, 100°C other layers |
| Cool Plate and Cool Plate SuperTack | 0°C (not used for this material) |
| Chamber temperature | 60°C |
| Recommended nozzle temperature range | 240 to 280°C |
| Flow ratio | 0.95 |
| Max volumetric speed | 12 mm³/s |
| Adaptive volumetric speed | Off |
| Density | 1.04 g/cm³ |
| Shrinkage | 100% |
| Softening temperature | 100°C |
| Metal stickiness | None |
| Velocity adaptation factor | 1 |
| Scarf seam type | None |
260°C on the nozzle with the chamber at 60°C is what gives the layers a proper bond in this material. The 12 mm³/s volumetric cap keeps the 0.6 nozzle from outrunning the melt, which is where under extrusion and weak layers start.
Cooling
Short version: fan off for the first 3 layers, then 10% to 80% depending on layer time, always 80% on overhangs.
This is the Cooling tab of the same filament preset. Fans stay off for the first three layers so the base grips the plate, then the part fan runs between 10% and 80% depending on how long each layer takes.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Initial layer fan | 0% for the first 3 layers |
| Linear ramp up to | 0 layers |
| Min fan speed threshold | 10% when layer time is 35 s |
| Max fan speed threshold | 80% when layer time is 12 s |
| Keep fan always on | On |
| Slow printing down for better layer cooling | On |
| Don't slow down outer walls | Off |
| Min print speed | 20 mm/s |
| Force cooling for overhangs and bridges | On |
| Cooling overhang threshold | 25% |
| Overhang threshold for participating cooling | 100% |
| Fan speed for overhangs | 80% |
| Pre start fan time | 0 s |
| Ironing fan speed | -1 (default) |
| Auxiliary part cooling fan | 0% for the first 3 layers, no ramp up (off) |

80% fan on overhangs is the one that matters for supported prints. It sets the underside of the part over the support interface without blasting the rest of the print and killing layer adhesion.
Retraction
Found under the Setting Overrides tab of the filament preset. Only four boxes are ticked. Everything else stays unticked so the printer profile handles it.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Length | 0.4 mm |
| Z hop type | Spiral |
| Wipe while retracting | On |
| Wipe distance | 1 mm |
| Z hop when retract, retraction speed, deretraction speed, extra length on restart, travel distance threshold, retract when change layer, retract amount before wipe, long retraction when cut | Not overridden |
0.4 mm is short on purpose. Carbon fibre filament is brittle, and long retractions grind it in the extruder and clog a 0.6 nozzle. The 1 mm wipe does the stringing control instead.
Support settings
Short version: tree(auto), 30° threshold angle, 0.2 mm top Z distance, 0.5 mm interface spacing. Everything else default.

These live in the process profile, not the filament preset. Start from 0.24mm Balanced Quality @BBL H2S 0.6 nozzle, open the Support tab and set the following. Raft stays off and supports print in the same ASA-CF as the part.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Enable support | On |
| Type | tree(auto) |
| Style | Default |
| Threshold angle | 30° |
| On build plate only | Off |
| Support critical regions only | Off |
| Remove small overhangs | On |
| Raft layers | 0 |
| Support/raft base filament | Default |
| Support/raft interface filament | Default |
| Initial layer density | 90% |
| Initial layer expansion | -1 mm (default) |
| Support wall loops | -1 (default) |
| Top Z distance | 0.2 mm |
| Bottom Z distance | 0.2 mm |
| Base pattern | Default |
| Base pattern spacing | 2.5 mm |
| Pattern angle | 0° |
| Top interface layers | 2 |
| Interface pattern | Default |
| Top interface spacing | 0.5 mm |
| Normal support expansion | 0 mm |
| Support/object XY distance | 0.35 mm |
| Z overrides X/Y | Off |
| Support/object first layer gap | 0.2 mm |
| Max bridge length | 0 mm |
| Independent support layer height | On |

The two that matter most are the 0.2 mm top Z distance and the 0.5 mm interface spacing. Together they let the support hold the part up through the print but snap away clean afterwards without tearing the underside. The 30° threshold angle is lower than Bambu's default, so more of the part gets supported than you might expect. On ASA-CF that is the right call, because unsupported overhangs in this material curl and go rough rather than just drooping. Let the part cool fully before pulling supports off.
Tree support
Further down the same Support tab. These shape the trunks and branches of the tree supports.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Branch distance | 5 mm |
| Branch diameter | 2 mm |
| Branch angle | 45° |
| Branch diameter angle | 5° |
A 5 mm branch distance keeps the trees light so they come off in one piece. If a big flat overhang is sagging between branches, drop it to 3 or 4 mm for that part only.
Paint your supports
Auto support on its own is not enough for this material. Bambu Studio's automatic support generation is built around PLA, which bridges and overhangs without much complaint. ASA-CF does not. It needs more support than the slicer thinks it does, and it needs support in places the slicer never flags at all.
So once the auto trees have generated, go over the part and paint supports by hand:

- Select the part and press L to open Support Painting (the paint tool in the left toolbar). Left click paints support, right click blocks it. The fill tool grabs a whole face in one hit, the brush is for edges.
- Paint under every overhang the auto trees missed and anywhere the preview shows an unsupported area.
- Paint anchors. Put support under corners, along long flat edges and under any thin section that sticks out, even where there is no real overhang. ASA-CF pulls hard as it cools and those are the points that lift first. A painted patch there ties the edge to the tree, so the support Z contact holds it down for the whole print instead of letting it curl.
- Keep the type on tree(auto). Painted areas add to the automatic supports, they do not replace them.
- Slice again and step through the preview layer by layer. If an edge still lifts on the finished print, paint that patch bigger next time.

The 0.2 mm top Z distance applies to painted supports too, so the anchors still snap off clean once the part has cooled.
Before you print
The settings only work if the basics are right. These are the ones people skip.
- Dry the spool. We run every spool at 80°C before it goes near a printer. Wet ASA-CF pops, strings and prints weak no matter what the slicer says.
- Use a hardened steel nozzle. Carbon fibre eats brass in a few spools. 0.6 mm is the sweet spot for this material, and 0.2 mm nozzles will not run it at all.
- Keep the printer closed. ASA-CF wants a stable enclosure, and the 60°C chamber above assumes the door and lid stay shut for the whole print.
- Run the textured PEI plate at 100°C with no glue. It holds and releases cleanly once the plate cools.
- Ventilate. ASA gives off fumes while printing, so filter the air or print somewhere with airflow.
- On a printer without a heated chamber, keep every other setting the same, print in the warmest spot you can and expect a small drop in layer strength on tall parts.
Get the filament
Everything in our reels is printed in Y Customs ASA-CF. It is the same spools we run around the clock in the workshop making our own parts, so the settings above were tuned on this exact filament, not a near enough substitute. Multi spool pricing is on the product page, and the technical data sheet is there if you want the numbers.
Buy our filament and we will send you the full settings for exactly what we run at Y Customs on our Bambu Lab H2S printers. Not just this post, the complete filament preset and process profiles we print our own parts with, so you are starting from the same place we are.
Thanks for reading our Blog, if you guys have any other questions, feel free to contact us via sales@ycustoms.com.au or our Instagram/Facebook Page.